“I Had a Choice to Make,” Liahona, Aug. 2022.
Digital Only: Portraits of Faith
I Had a Choice to Make
Should I keep surfing on Sunday or fulfill my responsibilities as a husband, father, and member of the Church?
Photograph by Manea Fabisch
Bodyboarding has been my greatest passion since I discovered it. It is my outlet, my decompression. From the outset, I always wanted to excel in it.
To get to the highest level, I practiced tirelessly, surfing all day whenever possible. I focused on my goal to become the best drop-knee rider in Tahiti. I won the title two or three times in that category at the Tahiti Taapuna Master surfing tournament as well as at other tournaments.
When I started, the competitions gave me a thrill, and I wanted to show everyone how good I was. Soon, I started getting offers from local and overseas sponsors.
Tournament finals are always held on Sunday, and I often had arguments with my wife about competing on the Lord’s day. She was right. Surfing was taking over too much of my life, but I didn’t want to lose my sponsors. Sponsors allowed me access to top-end, professional surfing equipment, which is expensive. I had to make a choice.
My wife and children motivate me to be an example of faith. They help me determine what I want to become. And of course, my personal faith, the upbringing I received from my parents and leaders, the example of others who have made sacrifices to honor the Sabbath, and the impressions I received from the Spirit also helped me to make my decision. I decided to give priority to my responsibilities as a husband, father, and member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.
Photograph by Tetuanui Teriitemoehaa
In 2006 the Taapuna Master competition was dedicated to my uncle Nelva Lee, my mom’s little brother. I lost him at a surfing spot I used to go to when I was young. It’s called Afu, near Paea, on the island of Tahiti. Just 10 minutes before my uncle drowned, he encouraged me to love others and be a good rider at a place near Taapuna, which he really loved. I’ve tried to honor his last words to me.
When I decided to devote myself entirely to the Lord on Sunday, I explained to my sponsors why I no longer surf in the finals on Sunday. I told them that my spiritual and family life takes precedence.
They supported me in my choice. In return, out of respect for Sunday, they asked me to do photo shoots and surf videos on other days of the week. My friends in the circuit also know and respect my religious beliefs and often ask me to pray for them.
I’ve qualified for the finals of the Taapuna Master every year since I turned pro, but I stopped competing on Sunday after winning the title in 2006. I still compete, but now, when they call my name for the finals on Sunday, everyone knows I won’t be there.
Photograph by Manea Fabisch
I remember the words of President Russell M. Nelson: “I learned from the scriptures that my conduct and my attitude on the Sabbath constituted a sign between me and my Heavenly Father [see Exodus 31:13; Ezekiel 20:12, 20]. With that understanding, I no longer needed lists of dos and don’ts. When I had to make a decision whether or not an activity was appropriate for the Sabbath, I simply asked myself, ‘What sign do I want to give to God?’ That question made my choices about the Sabbath day crystal clear.”1
At the end of 2020, I broke my leg while surfing. While recovering, I was called as the bishop of the Papeari Ward. The stake president told me that my example as a devoted young man who tries to put the Lord first would inspire young people to walk the covenant path.
I know that my Heavenly Father is happy with my choice. Above all, nothing will ever compare with my family’s happiness and the balance we have achieved together.